Some of my warmest Christmas memories are, quite literally, warm: a carol concert under a Melbourne summer sky, mango slices instead of mince pies, a Manila street strung with lanterns in early September. In this part of the route, Christmas sometimes belongs to a Christian minority, sometimes to a whole nation, and sometimes mostly to shops and couples. Each version is worth understanding on its own terms.
Asia
- September to January · Philippines
The world's longest season
Filipinos often say Christmas begins with the "ber months", and carols are heard from September. The parol, a star lantern traditionally made of bamboo and paper, hangs in windows to recall the Star of Bethlehem. In San Fernando, Pampanga, the Giant Lantern Festival shows off enormous steel lanterns with thousands of bulbs that pulse in time to music.
From 16 to 24 December, Simbang Gabi brings nine dawn or evening masses; completing all nine is a cherished promise. Afterwards people buy bibingka and puto bumbong from stalls outside the church, and on Christmas Eve families share Noche Buena.
- 24–25 Dec · Japan
Cake, chicken and Christmas Eve dates
Only a small share of people in Japan are Christian, yet Christmas is widely celebrated. A 1974 KFC campaign helped make fried chicken a Christmas Eve meal, with orders placed weeks ahead. The Christmas cake is a sponge with whipped cream and strawberries, and Christmas Eve is often treated as a romantic evening for couples.
- 25 Dec · South Korea and China
Holidays and peace apples
Christmas is a public holiday in South Korea, where churches are full and Seoul's streets glow with lights. In Chinese cities, friends give apples on Christmas Eve, wrapped in printed paper, because the word for apple, píngguǒ, sounds like píng'ān, meaning peace.
- December · India
Stars over Goa and Kerala
India's Christian communities, especially in Goa, Kerala, Mumbai and the northeast, hang large star lanterns outside homes, build cribs and visit midnight mass. Where fir trees are scarce, banana or mango trees are sometimes decorated instead, and Kerala's rich plum cake is shared with neighbours of every faith.
Africa
- 7 Jan · Ethiopia
Genna
The Ethiopian Orthodox Church follows its own calendar, and Christmas, Genna, falls on 7 January. Many fast for weeks beforehand. On the eve, worshippers wrapped in white netela shawls attend services that last through the night; Lalibela's rock-hewn churches draw pilgrims from across the country. Afterwards comes doro wat, a spiced chicken stew, and young men traditionally play genna, a game with curved sticks and a wooden ball.
- 7 Jan · Egypt
Coptic Christmas
Egypt's Coptic Christians also celebrate on 7 January, after a long nativity fast. Midnight liturgies are followed by family breakfasts and visits, and the Coptic Pope's Christmas Eve service is broadcast nationally.
- 24–26 Dec · Ghana, Nigeria
Homecomings
In West Africa Christmas is above all a time to travel home. Churches hold carol services and nativity plays, cities fill with music, and pots of jollof rice, stews and meat are shared with the extended family and anyone who drops by.
- 25 Dec · South Africa
A summer braai
December is summer holiday season in South Africa. Many families gather outdoors around a braai, pull Christmas crackers and finish with malva pudding.
Oceania
- December · Australia
Carols by Candlelight
First held in Melbourne in 1938, Carols by Candlelight is now staged at the Sidney Myer Music Bowl and broadcast nationwide on Christmas Eve, with similar events in towns across the country. On Christmas Day, Sydney's Bondi Beach fills with visitors in Santa hats.
- 26 Dec · Australia
Sydney to Hobart
The Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race, first sailed in 1945, starts on Boxing Day, and spectator boats crowd Sydney Harbour to see the fleet away.
- December · New Zealand
The pōhutukawa
The coastal pōhutukawa tree bursts into crimson flower in December, earning the name "New Zealand Christmas tree". Its blossoms appear on cards, and summer holidays at the beach or the bach are the season's centre.
Bringing the south home
A paper parol is a lovely weekend craft, and a Christmas Eve apple with a handwritten wish for peace costs almost nothing. If your Christmas is in winter, an outdoor carol evening with candles still captures the Australian spirit. And remembering that friends may celebrate on 7 January is a small courtesy that goes a long way.